Thursday, 16 September 2010

Marhabaa.

Marhabba (hello)

I am inebetween Bell contracts at the moment.  My next adventure will be in Saudi Arabia.  Having been offered a one-month position at King Saud University, Riyadh, without an interview, I am now waiting for my passport to be returned from the Saudi embassy, fixed with a business visa.

My destination is the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, the home of Islam, and of the two holiest citiesm Makkah (Mecca) and Medinah (Medina).  It is fairly hot, very conservative and operates completely under Sharia law.

I expressed some surprise at being offered the chance to go, when others around me at the time were not.  It certainly spoke volumes about my growing experience in the industry and my temperament, although the latter has been questioned at times, personally if not professionally.   The fact of being offered the chance without an interview was pleasing but has also made me concerned.  What is expected of me?  What materials will I teach with? Could I fail (again)?  Previous experiences have taught me that given certain situations I am likely to 'take flight.'  However, the fact that I will potentially earn a large sum of money for what amounts to 20 days' work is reassuring... I would not have agreed to doing any period longer than a month.. and I will be back on the plane home soon enough.  I just don't know exactly when that will be, however.

Fully geared up to going on 22 September, I now have now been told that this won't happen. I have to sit back and wait for the Saudi embassy and the employer to give me the green light and stamp my visa.  I was informed of the application procedure on 16 August and sent off all the necessary paperwork.  I received a visa E-number in good time and completed the application on 28 August.  This has taken place during the holy month of Ramadan and I was warned to expected delays.  Ramadan, however, finished on 9 September ... and the 3 day Eid al-Fitr festival which followed is also over.   Yesterday (15 September) I rung up to check the status of my application.  It appears that I will not be going out as envisaged on 22 September, and probably not before the 29th!  This is frustrating, although it shouldn't be surprising.  Today, 16 September, I received my contract by email.  So, this means that things are happening, just not fast enough for me.  It's not that I am desperate to go, but I just like to know what I am doing.  I have also made a couple of plans for when I return, which could be scuppered by a late departure.  I will still work for one month on a temporary contract, with all the expectation of duties that come with teaching 8 solid hours per day for 20 days, not Thursday and not Friday, which is the holiest day of the muslim week.

There will be stricter enforcement of etiquette (speech, manners), dress code and behaviour than anywhere else that I have taught English as a foreign lanaguage so far.  Changwon and Beijing had their restrictions, but nothing like this.  I have to be fairly covered up - e.g. no exposed arms, legs or feet - and I will be teetotal for the duration of my stay - as alcohol is illegal.  I musn't openly cause offence or criticize procedures.  I mustn't approach or speak with women, I should avoid public transport, and must not under any circumstances proselytize any non-Muslim religion - not that I am likely to.  I must be aware of daily prayer times and respect the need for muslims to do this 5 times a day.   I must not take pork, 'dubious' photographs or pornography into the country.  I am allowed to take a bible for private use only... but, again, I am not likely to do this either.  I have already decided not to take my laptop - not that it contains any 'indecent' images (or pork, for that matter) and I am even considering leaving my iPod at home... i've just reloaded it with over 15,000 tracks... and i wouldn't want anything bad to happen to it.  I left my previous iPod in a taxi in Beijing, along with my favourite denim jacket. My iPod is full of 'western' and 'rastafarian' music and none-too conservative album covers ('Anarchy' by Chumbawama, anyone?). Containing a few albums by Arabic singers, Natacha Atlas and Tinariwen is not sufficient to integrate me into the society or persuade customs officials.

When I originally put out the idea on facebook that I was considering going, many friends responded negatively and, knowing me, tried to put me off.  Once they realised the salary involved and the limited period of work then they came round to the idea.  My closest friends and family never had any doubts, apart from the obvious ones, so I am grateful to them for that. 

So, now I have to be patient and wait to be contacted about my visa and my flight, which can be arranged quickly, once the visa is issued.  I may even have to pick up my passport at the airport on the way to the plane.  It remains to be seen which day this is, however, and when my short Saudi experience is going to begin.

TP