Signing Off from Saudi

Fingers Phil!

I have now signed off from the KSU programme, Riyadh.  I have my passport and am ready to fly back home to the UK on Monday 27 June.  It has been an interesting, eventful, stressful, testing but enjoyable experience.  I have met a number of life-long friends and some also-rans.  The bonding has been especially tight due to the difficulties of the work conditions and the surrounding cultural aspects.   I have achieved a lot, most notably the ability to stick with something from beginning to end and to not have any kind of breakdown.  Coming off the back of my mental frailty in January, to be able to confidently board a plane on 31 January and to see it through until 27 June, has to rank as one of my greater achievements.  I can compare it with 8 months in Beijing, 11 months in South Korea and 3 months in Tanzania.  I have now completed, if I add all my contracts together, three full years in TEFL.  With this, I can now go back to study.

On 21 June, Midsummer's Day, I was offered a place at Warwick University to undertake a MA in English Language Teaching, with specialism in ICT (Information Communication Technology) and Multimedia, beginning this October.  I will probably accept, believing this will significantly increase my job prospects for the future.  For some time I have been interested in video making and editing.  It truly begun when I documented my Albatros stunt in 2006, before going on to document my time in Tanzania, climbing Kilimanjaro, teaching in South Korea and working at an arts university in Beijing.  As well as having a standard YouTube channel, I am now exploring other ways to present video and use video in the classroom. I have gained tremendous interest more recently in web 2.0 tool technologies, such as wordle, eyeplorer and jing.  These can be invaluable in engaging a group of young learners, who are not just au fait with technology but see technologies (smart phones, for example) as an extension of their bodies.  I've already used Twitter and Wikispaces in the classroom, amongst other tools.  I may get into a bit of web design, too, although this is not an actual part of the course.  I can, however, teach myself during my year long sabbatical from work.  Before all that I will need learn a bit of theory about language acquisition.  This is a fairly new area for me.  I am going to doing my MA under the auspices of the Centre for Applied Linguistics, something I wouldn't have imagined last month, let alone when I begun my new career. 

I recently agreed to be part of teacher interviews for the programme.  While many scoff at the idea of seemingly doing a promotional video for what is otherwise a fundamentally flawed programme, I lapped up the chance, knowing that anything to do with video can't hinder building up a portfolio of work.  The initial filming, with Elijah Maurer and Andrew Chappell was deemed unsuitable due to shaky camera angles and background noise.  Although my editing was applauded, it was re shot two days later.  This latter version will be edited and put on the newly designed IEP (Intensive English Programme) website.  

In addition to being offered the place at Warwick and getting my passport back, Midsummer's Day saw 16 of us going to the Nadj Village for a Bedouin banquet, where all the food was laid out on carpets.  Essentially a goodbye to Kevin Smith (centre, first photo below), who was going home early to attend a wedding, it was actually a general swansong meal. This veritable feast included Camel meat, tripe and deserts made with dates.  I felt the time was right to fully 'come out' about Kim.  Although most people now knew that we had been in a relationship for a few months, not many had ever seen us out together.  We both felt that there was nothing to lose now by going public. 

Bedouin Banquet - Kevin Smith (centre)

Mikey Kettle (centre) at the Banquet

The signing off process for the KSU programme came a little earlier than originally planned, due to needing ID in order to travel to Jeddah for a second time.  My Iqama was taken back on Sunday, my final exit visa stamp was obtained on Monday and I collected my passport (minus the visa stamp) on Tuesday, in order to travel one more time within KSA.  A lot of anxiety surrounded this, although less so for me, because I luckily saw the email requesting the Iqama. Three of my fellow Jeddah Knights, Luke, Tom and Tonks had to give in their original Iqamas on Saturday, and hope that their final exit visa was produced by the Monday.  We were all due to fly out together, via Beirut, on Middle East Airlines.  A number of trips to Obeikan head office needed to be undertaken in order to get reassurance that things would be processed in time.  Nobody wanted to miss the exit flight and the strain of all the way to the end and then not being able to leave was palpable.  I had to reassure my friends on a number of occasions that things would be fine, despite knowing it was only 99% certain.  Fortunately, the crucial word which brings doubt in the minds of non-muslims, 'inshallah', was not mentioned on the third visit.  Only war, terrorism, famine, tsunami and Abdullah bin Abdul-Aziz Al Saud, announcing a surprise national holiday, should prevent something from happening on this occasions.  For students, however, this extends to road traffic accidents.


To complete full 'signing off' I had to fill out an exit questionnaire, a staff survey, return my Dell laptop and clean my desk.  None of these were taxing.  The first two were laughable, as anyone who knows about conducting research can tell you there was no qualitative controls exercised in the attempt to generate genuine opinions from staff.  I had one communication studies invigilation to carry out, which lasted 2 hours.  Other than that, it was easy street for the final two weeks.  With nothing to do, students noticeable by their absence, it was a chance for me to play 'ping-pong', research about the potential MA and think about what to do with the young learners on the summer school at the Leys.

Political decisions have been taken now with regards to those staff offered summer school work, a return to the programme and whether teachers from non-native English speaking countries can be hired again.  A ridiculous requirement appears to be that you must now be from one of the main six countries, the US, the UK, Canada, Australia, New Zealand or South Africa, to be hired to work here.  A decision is still outstanding on those from the Lebanon, Syria, Egypt and the like as to whether they can come back. This has cause untold anxiety for those it affects.  Meanwhile the summer school begun this Saturday.


I signed up with a new kind of bank account at World First in order to transfer money from my Saudi bank account at SABB, a subsidiary of HSBC.  By obtaining a guaranteed exchange rate, this saved me a bit of money.  I subsequently helped Luke and another colleague to do the same.  

Thanks Rosie for inviting the Pafetics one more time!

Tom Coming Up for Air

Limbless Luke dives in

Before the end, the so-called 'pafetics', who went to Jeddah in May, returned to the west coast, minus 2 of the crew.  This time a boat was hired from Desert Sea Divers to take us out into the Red Sea for some diving and snorkelling.  Although not qualified or trained to dive it was fun to be involved and watch Phil Tonkers come up with as many water based activities as possible.  It was an enjoyable trip although I disappointed not to spot the dolphins which others saw.  Fortunately there were no sharks, just little jellyfish to contend with.  We rounded the day off with some Indian food and the last of the homemade froff (wine).  

Under the Sea

Good Friends, but Baron Ball Rivals

The following day was supposed to be all about the Baron Ball rematch.  A couple of sets were played - these were shared, so the result was a draw, although one team maintain they won 5 games to 4.  The result paled into insignificance, however, against an embarrassingly over competitive and stubborn set of players who were taking it far too seriously.    The pre-match banter was fair enough but it escalated so much that our host had to intervene and hire two small children to break up the fisticuffs by reminding everyone that the weekend was supposed to be fun.  Still, plenty of good memories have come from both our trips and we rounded off things with a 'Pafetic' Chocolate Cake. 


Returning from Jeddah took long than anticipated as our flight was first brought forward by 15 minutes, then delayed by 2 and a half hours whilst some of the crew seemingly watched an important football match involving two Saudi Arabian teams.  The excuse given by the airline, Nasair, was that our plane was not in a fit state to fly, and they had to haul out a spare... but we think for 'plane', read 'pilot'.  As the final whistle blew, after extra-time and penalties, the gates miraculously opened.  I passed the time reading about the Islamic view on feminine hygiene and the interpreted rules regarding praying and menstruation.

On Saurday morning a quick dash to the Obeikan main office was required to reassure three of the 'pafetics' that despite giving their Iqamas in late, they would still get their final exit visas stamped and passports returned on Sunday.  We will collect them on Monday, say goodbye to everyone and head to King Khaled International Airport.

Next stop: Beirut, then London. 



Recent videos uploaded onto YouTube include:




PS ARRIVED HOME ON 28 JUNE VIA BEIRUT. NOW IN CAMBRIDGE FOR THE REST OF THE SUMMER.

Appraisal Time

My appraisal took place this week and I now feel like I have completed the contract.  Except there is still just over a month to see out.  It was an opportunity to officially vent some feelings and have my comments about the programme recorded.  Of which more shortly.


I have booked a flight to Jeddah and am going with seven others next week to visit the Red Sea and chill out away from Riyadh.  The mini break can't come soon enough.  It looks like being the only trip between now and my flight home on 27 June.   I requested my exit visa yesterday. Before that, I am going to the American Embassy for a Marines organised party... JD, here I come.


I have finished the penultimate week of teaching and can look forward to a pleasant final week consisting of final exam revision and accurately counting the number of students present and absent.  Despite plenty of rumours the university are not increasing the threshold of absences that the student are allowed and attendance remains compulsory for the final week, ahead of the exams, which begin on 4 June.  I have been showing Doctor Who in class recently at the end of the lessons, as reward for their IELTS results and an excellent debate about the moon landings.  And incredibly we watched Chris Morris' black comedy about Muslim suicide bombers, 'Four Lions', with some of them... they got nearly all the jokes. So far, we have got away with it.  Haram, no doubt... but educational and funny, nonetheless.


This is of little concern to the higher level students who have already taken an IELTS exam and achieved a score of band 5.0 or higher and are subsequently exempt from the final exam - which accounts for 50% of the semester marks.  This applies to 18 of my 25 remaining students.  So I have just 7 students left who are taking the exam and interested in turning up next week.  Remedial classes take place this weekend and the following weekend for those that need it.  Fortunately my first name doesn't begin with an 'A', 'B' or 'Y' and I didn't make the list for taking these particular classes.  Phew!  Who needs that, really?


The twelve-month contracts for 2011-2012 have been finalised and published. Bell are still involved in recruitment, although have been given less places than before.  I have declared no interest in returning and subsequently stated this in my appraisal this week.  During an hour long meeting I explained why.  Despite my positive feelings about what a great experience it has been for me, I had to relay my constructive criticism of the place.  The PDMS appraisal system which applies to everyone, who really has any bearing on those intending to return.  It is a rough, arbitrary way to assess a teacher's performance.  My motivations to carry out all my duties, never miss a day through illness and contribute successfully to the programme have all been achieved.  But I was internally motivated by things other than wanting to prove how good I am and secure a place for next year.  As I have explained to a few people here and in my appraisal meeting, I was motivated to do well on the back my own perceived 'failure' in January, whereby I was employed by Bell on the Young Learner Programme in Bedgebury, yet didn't teach one single lesson.  This internal motivation, if explained to people, accounts for my attitude towards my work... I can still feel it pushing every single day, even now.


My students have been obsessed recently about a proposed intention for loads of women to take to the streets in their cars on 17 June.  As this CNN report and this Al Jazeera report shows the campaign group, Women 2 Drive, led by Manal al Sharif, are trying to encouraging women to take to the streets and disobey the cultural 'law' - Saudi Arabia remains the only country in the world where women are banned from driving, except this is only really enforced by the religious police. 


This is one example of a country that is going to have to change from within.  The middle east uprising across the whole of the Arab world is having its effect.  We are yet to see real protests (because they are also banned) and we are yet to see real societal change (because people are still a little scared) but things will change and this country will begin to see changes and concessions soon.   Saudis, especially women and young people, are all too aware of the outside world and are getting envious of the minor freedoms allowed elsewhere. The King appears to be a progressive man but it would take some time to filter through change.


There have been more student complaints this semester than any other so far, according to my supervisor in my appraisal.  Although I have relayed my concerns about the students have too much power over the teachers here, I believe it is showing a trend towards not taking things lying down.  There is general unrest, which sometimes manifests in students stupidly trying to challenge their marks or attendance figure, but sometimes comes from a desire to show unhappiness with treatment... perhaps a microcosm of what is happening in wider Saudi society.  As I explained to my supervisor, these kids will not be contained forever.  They will get MORE demanding, not LESS.  Although they don't have an Allah-given right to favourable treatment, they could be persuaded to start challenging some of the constructs that are deeply ingrained in wider society.



NOTE: CURRENTLY SKYPE IS DOWN - CALLS NOT POSSIBLE.

Top of the Tower

It's the weekend here in Saudi.  Some of the teachers have got 'cover duty' today, but not me... I'm pretty much on holiday.  All potential lesson planning has been put off until tomorrow as I have taken myself for a walk around the city (albeit with a short taxi ride to begin with).   It's a relatively new city.. still being built.  Modern buildings rising from rubble.. there is construction everywhere. I have just been up to the highest point in Riyadh - the Kingdom Tower - off King Fahd Road - known as the 'necklace' if you are being polite or 'bottle opener' if you are being unkind.  It is, at 302m high, the 54th tallest structure in the world, topped with a 300-tonne iron bridge known as the 'skybridge'.

It is also the end of my first proper week on the 'biggest language programme in the world' and I have got into the swing of things, although I have little time during the day to plan much.  I am only really concerned about one lesson, which is my observed lesson.  It is the only time I am actually checked on my performance... I only hope it is in the morning with one of my Level 3 classes, not in the afternoon.  My Level 1's are fine, obviously low ability, but the classroom is small and there is no air conditioning.  We all want to change rooms, but for now I am allowing water/toilet breaks because I feel sorry for them!  I'm having fun with the E-Podium and drawing on the smartboard... I can now put this experience on my CV.  There are continuous assessments for all students and they are being encouraged to take part in different kinds of learning - including socratic dialogues and mind-mapping, which they are not used to.  In terms of being used to learning by rote and memorising, they are very similar to the Chinese and Korean kids.  You think they are young adults and most of them dwarf me, either by height or by width, but when they see even a cartoon drawing of a female they start giggling, so you realise how sheltered a life they lead.  Having said that, they all use the internet and have a strong awareness of western culture, movies and music... even if they are not openly encouraged to have it through education.  They pretty much all have blackberries (parental note: it's a kind of mobile phone with-in built keyboard).  The other day I had a lesson on being a tourist in different cities around the world.  When I asked what New York was famous for, one said 'skyscrapers'. Then I had to ask them what an Arab might do in New York. I was wary of where the conversation might go, and had been warned to be careful.  15 of the hijackers from 9/11 were from Saudi, of course. The books have been culturaly vetted, I'm told.   We are not supposed to talk about religion or politics for obvious reasons, but they are curious, as you might expect.  And they are very polite and keen to learn, too.  One class invited me to Chilli's - which was voted best 'restaurant' by my Level 3 students, but I declined.  The students would have paid for me.. but they expect something back in terms of higher grades!  It's also technically an obligation of my contract to spurn gifts.  Although..... hmmm.... maybe a camel for the long journey from Wells -> Fakenham.

The big news for me is that I won't have to teach in my final week as the university is closed and there is basically no students.  The Haj pilgrimage approaches, as does the Eid_Al-Adha festival.  It remains to be seen whether I will stay until my scheduled flight home on 18 November... but I intend to and take the last week as holiday. I have mentioned it to the programme manager, just before he had to entertain dignitaries from 'the British Prime Minister's office'.  He said that "I am being discussed".  Potentially I could earn 1250 GBP for doing bugger all. Sshhhhh! Don't tell anyone.

I came here, essentially, for the serious cash injection.   But I will leave, I am sure, with increased confidence about being able to step into any classroom around the world and teach.  It has also given me insight into Arabic/Muslim culture and life which is centred around prayer 5 times a day.  I have become used to not drinking, and I am usually tired enough to sleep.  It is possible to live without drinking, I have found, as well as other things we are so used to in the western world.   I have plenty of carbohydrates and cheap Bengali curries so far... but I am now tempering it with salads.  I spent less than 10 riyals on a basket of veg in the supermarket... and will do at least 4 meals.  Cereal and Gronala bars in the morning.. coffee at all other times.

 
I hope to go the desert before I leave.. the Empty Quarter lies to the south, and there are camel races outside the city district.  Will have to borrow a 4WD, however.  I will keep tabs with the other teachers who live in the hotel, and catch a ride with them if they are going.  Safety in numbers.. speaking Arabic is a bonus if you live here, but Urdu goes a long way as many of the migrant workers come from the India and Pakistan, just like my taxi driver today, who just wanted to talk about cricket!  He was sad about the Pakistani cricketers involved in this summer's spot-fixing shame, yet he still overcharged me for a ride to the city centre!

Anyway, I can hear afternoon prayers being announced, so I better get out of this coffee shop before they close!  Or the Mutaween (religious police) will be after me.

TP

P.S:  Escaped the mutaween and took a lift to the top of the second of the main towers, Al-Faisaliah, before navigating my way home using some basic Arabic.