Into The Light

Tomorrow is 1 December, adopted by the World Health Organisation from 1988,

as World Aids Day. 

It is 4 years* since I was volunteering at an orphanage in Buswelu, near to Mwanza, Tanzania.  I thought I would take time out to reflect on my experience then and how I am grateful for it inspiring me to become a teacher.  That time with (fellow volunteers) Tom, Leesa, Georgina, Jenny, Adrianne, Michelle, Lorna, Mary, Jo, Anna, Ad, Katy and those kids at Hisani and Watoto wa Africa was utterly unforgettable.  An additional reason for this reflection is a film that was being made at the time, not by me but by an American documentary maker, Peter Glenn, alongside Mama Wilhelmina Lyimo-Saria, a Sociologist lecturer who was working in Nygezi, near Mwanza at the time, but originally comes from Moshi. That film has now been officially released on
DVD.  It is called "Into The Light".

I realise that a lot of fellow volunteers stayed a lot longer than me or felt compelled to return, while I ventured into my new career as a TEFL teacher.  Tom invited me to return but I declined, as I always wanted to return when I was properly qualified and had some proper experience in the industry.  I know Leesa and Georgina felt so passionately about the project(s) they HAD to return.  As for Jo and Mary, they spent substantial time helping at Watoto Wa Africa, and showed much more commitment to the orphans of Buswelu than I could give.  As far as I know, Michelle is still in Dar Es Salaam, having fallen in love with the country. 

In the Ngudu Productions film, by Peter Glenn,  Mama Lyimo's incredible journey to uncover why HIV/AIDS continues to spread in her country. When she befriends an AIDS orphan named Suzy, Lyimo's grassroots journey becomes more personal than she could have ever imagined; and when Suzy decides to test her siblings for HIV, Lyimo must face her worst fears for the children she now calls family.  (Press Release)

One of the few obvious questions Mama Lyimo raises at the beginning is why is the problem (of Aids) still there when everyone apparently knows what the issues are?  Like any decent ethnographic researcher she sets out on a journey to find out directly for herself, although she has to resort to offering free beer to get some of the males to talk.  Ironically, some guys interviewed on their boat on Lake Victoria explain that beer, or rather drunkeness, is often the problem.  It enduces a casual, haphazard approach to (safe) sex.  It is also appears that the issue of sex is still a taboo subject and that people are still not educated properly about safe sex. Another telling moment arrives early on at a village seminar when guys giggle about condoms not being reliable.  It appears that they are looking for something else to blame for the spread of AIDS, rather than accept responsibility for allowing themselves to be educated and to change their attitude.  Because the help is not coming from top-down it needs tackling, as Mama Lyimo explains, from the bottom.  Her approach is welcomingly direct, as we see her trying to break through the social stigma.

Another sign of AIDS being a taboo subject is in an interview with a welfare worker, Dafrosa Itemba, at the Moshi AIDS information centre, who explains that relatives and doctors refer to the reason for someone dying as 'of the symptoms' related to AIDS but not specifically AIDS.  Elsewhere we see the prejudice towards people contracting the virus. Sufferers are shunned and talked to at a distance because of mis-informed prejudice.  'People just die from (an unspecified) disease'. It's sad, but accepted.


As Mama Lyimo tries to find more answers to her initial question, she finds two catholic preachers in Mbeya who are worringly skeptical.  Maybe their hands are tied by Catholic doctrine, but they have a dismissive attitude as one explains over a bottle of Tusker: "An Umbrella protects you from the rain ... but don't forget that there are types of rain where that umbrella can't protect you".

Compared to Uganda, the number of condoms being bought in Tanzania at state level is relatively small.  It reminded me of a 'joke' around the time UK government sent out a leaflet in the 1980s which was 'Don't die of ignorance ... die of AIDS instead".  Ignorance is one thing, ambivalence is another.

The whole film brought back a lot of feelings and memories for me. Although the orphanage featured in Mwanza, the Starehe Children's home, was a different one to the ones I volunteered at ... there are obvious similarities.   Visiting those diagnosed or dying of AIDS reminded me of the visits undertaken by some of us at the time. I also remember the desperate need for money for anything... although trusting people was always an issue.


For those of us that have been to Tanzania or experienced similar life-changing trips to Kenya, Malawi, Uganda or other surrounding countries, the feelings generated by this film will be all too familiar.  We know the kinds of people involved... the sick, the orphaned, the care workers, the priests! 

It took quite a while for the project to get from initial idea to DVD release, although it was premiered in Los Angeles on 1 December 2009.  Peter Glenn "poured 3 years into it on a completely voluntary basis." (see email below)  I first heard about this project soon after I came back from Tanzania in 2007, having successfully climbed Mount Kilimanjaro, with two volunteers from Bagamoyo, Australian Meaghan Bruce and Swede Kristina Agren.


The original score by Tsotsi composer Paul Hepker compliments but never intrudes. This is unlike my reliance on unauthorised use of  John Mayer or Coldplay tracks for my own low-budget but narrative-friendly film, 'Phil's Tanzanian Adventure'.  We can never forget it, can we Mr Rogers?

So, if you can, please take time to watch the film.  It costs 3.99 GBP to stream online.  DVDs are currently unable to be shipped outside the US.  Please contact me if you need help getting the access code.

*my original blog from 1 December 2006:

http://blogs.statravel.co.uk/phillongwell/blog/tanzania/mwanza/2006-12-01+09%3A27%3A24

photos courtesy of Peter Glenn / http://www.intothelightfilm.com/

 TO WATCH THE FILM CLICK HERE:

http://www.intothelightfilm.com/buy-film/buy-the-film/

 
Here is what Peter Glenn has told me directly about the costs:

"In regards to money going back to Tanzania, that is certainly a long term goal of ours and we're currently trying to shore up partnerships that might allow us to make more of a direct difference.  However, we have tens of thousands of dollars in debt from the costs of making the film and we all poured 3 years of our lives into making the film on a completely volunteer basis.  So we do need to be mindful of costs and reimbursing our expenses and other members of my family who loaned us money to make the film.

If you have suggestions for worthy non-profits in Tanzania, we'd certainly love suggestions we could look into.  Ideally, we would have donated funds to KIWAKKUKI but it would have been difficult to support their work after they intentionally covered up the truth about Ceci's test results.

Thanks so much for supporting the film and helping raise awareness about the challenges of AIDS and poverty in Tanzania!"

Thanks for reading.


Teacher Phili

 

Andalucia

Sometimes a blog gets written and nobody ever reads it.  That may be the case with this one.  So why bother? Because it acts as a reflexive tool for the writer, much as keeping a journal of thoughts or things accomplished.   I may not be teaching this week or continuing my TEFL travels.. but I am travelling and maybe I will decide to live in the area I have been visiting for the past week.

I have been visiting Andalucia this past week. I flew into Malaga, then took a train to Cordoba followed by a bus to Granada. I don´t speak Spanish, although maybe I will learn one day.  So my ability to communicate effectively is restricted.  I came to Cordoba, via the southern beach resort of Malaga, to see Rene, a friend from the summer school programme at the Leys this year.  I had ´earned´ a holiday after Saudi Arabia - although more financially than vocationally.

It was a little odd flying into the UK for just over 24 hours.   It was the first time ever to pop back for a day to see the family and fly off again.  The oddness was bearable as I wasn´t going for long.  As well as being a bonus short break, it has also been a chance to do a reconnaissance mission.  The possibility of one day teaching in Spain is high.  I would suggest it is more likely than not.  Life happens, of course, but I think I am able to make my own destiny now.  This is unlike the young Andalucian boy, Santiago, in the novel ´The Alchemist´ by Paulo Coelho.  His ´destiny´ was mapped out for him.  Although I am not open to things being pre-ordained, I am open to the idea of ´fate´. 

I came away from the middle east thinking i could work there again.  I will go away from Andalucia believing that I will work here.  If I want to do it, it will happen.  To quote the Paulo´s old King, "When you want something, all the universe conspires in helping you to achieve it."


I took an AVANT train to Cordoba and spent an evening with Rene and some of his colleagues from International House (Academia Britanica).  There was a leaving gathering for one teacher.  During our simple meal, accompanied by Rioja, Barcelona beat Almeria 8-0 in La Liga BBVA.   I was sociable and had lots to talk about, especially with my recent adventure in Riyadh.   Everyone seemed interested in the salary, anyway.  They seemed less keen to adopt to the rules of a strict Muslim country.   Naturally, I had a few drinks, but was effectively ´killed off´ by an Alhambra Especial beer in SOUL, Calle de Alfonso XIII.  Despite enjoying the music and realising it was a popular place, I couldn´t cope with not being able to talk above the noise.  I eventually stormed off.

On Sunday, I got Rene´s guided tour of Cordoba.  The capital of Al-Andalus (the old Islamic centre), Cordoba contains at its heart a labyrinth of narrow streets which culminate in the Cathedral which used to be a mosque.  The Mezquita is fascinating, primarily for containing such ornate designs and a diverse sense of history in one large space.  So an elongated Muslim prayer space which recalls oasis palm groves, has a grand 16th century Catholic cathedral plonked right in the middle.  Outside the Orange Tree Gardens are overlooked by a Catholic tower, which was built over a minaret of Abdar-ar-Rahman III.  It is certainly impressive but I don't feel remotely spiritual, especially when there is a juxtoposition of different faiths in one building, such as this.

On Tuesday, I took a bus from Cordoba to Granada.  I think it's a prettier place, overlooked by the Sierra Nevada mountains and the mystical Alhambra.  Islamic Spain is truly represented here, not just in the Alhambra but in the Albayzin quarter of the city.  It's usually a hotbed centre for flemenco, but I was travelling a little out of season.  I stayed in La Juderia, in the old Jewish part of town, within 5 minutes walk from the Alhambra gardens.  Quaint, quiet and accommodating.  It was explained to me by the French born proprietor, Beatrice, that it was a quiet time of year.  It was late November and wet.  I could see how her little guesthouse would be crammed with visitors non-stop during the summer months.

I orientated myself pretty quickly, and took advantage of the number 3 and 33 buses which ran from the estacion de autobuses to the centro (city centre).  On the way I noticed a Pink Floyd pub, and I visited the place on both evenings I was there.

The highlight of the whole holiday was undoubtedly visiting the Alhambra.  Despite being a wet, overcast day, a steady stream of visitors had made the 'pilgrimage' up to the 'red castle'.  I picked up one of the 2000 tickets which are sold on the day (a further 4000 as sold in advance) and took the full, headset-based 'guided tour'.  I weaved my way, tourist-like, through Palacios Nazaries, then El Partal, then the towers of Alcazaba, before roaming through the water-based serenity of Generalife.   The Palacio de los Leones, where water is channelled through the mouths of 12 lions, was under refurbishment and the lions themselves were inside an exhibition hall.  Photos were generally allowed to be taken, but not here for some unknown reason. Additionally, I couldn't understand why I had to wear my backpack in front me on certain occasions.  Still, a fascinating place with exhilirating views at every turn.  Islamic architecture, symmetry and ornate designs, amazing backdrop.  A bell rung by hopeful lovers. A palace which survived the Napoleonic wars. A remnant. An empty residence, filled with visitors.

 I came away from Granada on Thursday thinking that I could live and work there.  I realise that in the summer it could be incredibly busy with visitors.  But it would be a good place to teach and to study Spanish.  I didn't actively seek out language schools, but would look into later. Not yet, but at some point in the future.  Probably preferable than teaching in Galicia or the north of the country.

I finished my short trip in Malaga, having caught the bus from Granada.  Malaga was quite vibrant and a little warmer than the previous two places.  Again, very much out of season.  Mostly locals, as far as I could tell.  I dipped out on the Pablo Picasso museum because I had a headache when I arrived.  I managed to take in some of the atmosphere but felt a little lonely wandering around and tucking into a basic Paella

Generally, I found 'smoking' - the 4th food group in southern Spain - to be evident everywhere. As is joints of jamon (ham).   After a month in a country where eating pig is illegal, there was an abundance of pig on show.. including as part of free tapas served at nearly every bar.  Begging and street theatre was also more commonplace than I would have imagined.  

I stayed at the Alameda Hotel, an odd little place on the 8th floor of a building, and probably paid over the odds.  However, I just need somewhere to crash ahead of flying back to the UK on Friday.  I left my passport and i-Pod in the hotel room, but realised before boarding the train to the airport.  Not for the first time had I left, or nearly left something behind.  Absent mindedness does creep in when I travel.

I was pleased to be going home for December.  Another month away from 'work'.  Next stop: Bowles Activity Centre, Kent, in January.

وداعا

I've come to the end of my one month visit to Riyadh.  It's been educational, giving me an insight into Arab culture, and has given me renewed confidence that I could walk into just about anywhere in the world and teach.  A return to the middle-east, whether Saudi or another Gulf State, is likely.  it is unlikely I will return here in February for the start of the 2nd semester, although I wouldn't rule it out.   What is more likely is a repeat of this one month contract next September/October, if the opportunity arises.  Alternatively, I could try Bahrain or Kuwait. 

King Abdullah has just announced that he is extended the Eid Al-Adha holiday period, which means that staff and students won't be returning until Saturday 26 Nov, instead of Monday 21 Nov.  He can do that and he has.

I've written a new teacher guide to things-to-do in Riyadh in order to satisfy my employers that i have 'worked' in my final week.  I have also submitted a fast-moving promo video (see link below) featuring the corridors of KSU.  Sometimes I do things without direct permission just to see what happens.  

The day before we left, an American guy picked up some guides to Islam from the university library and commented about how he was going to read up about the culture.  Another guy, sitting across the way, said he only needed one book - the Qur'an.  I see more clearly now why the Qur'an is revered.  I don't need to read it myself to understand its importance to Muslims.  What I respect about its message as given to the prophet Muhammad (632 CE) and, by extension, Muslims, is it has remained the same.  The memorising and recitation of the holy book through the ages gives it weight, over and above a contradictory Bible which has been edited, rewritten, revised and disputed by scholars.  Who actually wrote the Bible is a common thesis.  It seems clearer who 'wrote' the Qur'an.  None of this makes me religious, but as an agnostic leaning heavily towards atheism, I can have an opinion and I am allowed to respect one belief more than another.  What I didn't realise until this trip were the similarities, rather than the differences, between Protestant and Islamic faith and how much Jesus Christ, the person, fits into the picture of both.  Maybe I was ignorant to begin with, but I have learned a lot.

So I have not touched any alcohol, pork or women in the past month.  I have had what recovering alcoholics would call 'a moment of clarity' over drink.  Because it is not available (apart from illegally imported or reproduced liquor found in compounds) I have had no option than to be tee-total.  It's been good for me.  Occasionally, I have wanted a drink but I have never, at any point, needed one.   We do seem to rely upon alcohol all too easily in the west.  We drink, often without really thinking about it.  Yes, I have tried various fruit-flavoured NA beers, and these have had a placebo effect of sorts.  But my conclusion is that I will drink less than before, because it is not important.  Will I continue to smoke as I have done here .... hopefully not.... but that remains to be seen.

Anyway, it's time to go, pack my bags, say goodbye and head home for 24 hours.  Next stop: Spain (holiday) and Kent (winter explorer).  In between, apply for a job with the British Council and follow THE ASHES!!!

You know that I like to make videos wherever I go... there is just one this time.. a 4 minute KSU promo film featuring Riyadh and inside the building at KSU. 

Warning: contains fast-moving images.


Click on this link to see it on You Tube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0mVxevO9uQ 

TP

Signing Off from KSU

My penultimate post comes a day after signing off from KSU.  I have one week left in the Kingdom, during which time I will be doing some research.  With the university closed for Eid Al-Adha there is no teaching, but I signed a one month contract.  So the company have found some 'work' for me to do.  I have to put together a 'welcome' guide to Riyadh for new teachers ... things to do, places to visit, a list of recommended malls and restaurants etc.  giving approximate costs. This will be the first time I have been technically paid to do research.  Needless to say, adding some of my students to my Facebook account, albeit temporarily, may not be such a bad idea. They can help, and are more than willing to do so.  My recent colleagues may help, too.

After a difficult second week, the third breezed by in a flash.  A period of finishing off textbooks and doing reviews of all the units so far, spiced with a bit of mid-term exam and self-learning report preparation.  In the final lessons there were photo opportunities with all four of my classes.  Repeatedly, I heard them say that they would miss me.  I pulled a bit of a fast one with my very final group, as I had 'promised' them to mark them present even if they didn't show up for the final class.  So they were disappointed to be doing review quizzes while their peers were 'playing' outside on the roads, or preparing for the holidays.  



Hajj approaches.  Many of the KSU teaching staff, who are devout muslims, will be making the pilgrimage to Makkah (Mecca) over the next week, culminating in circulating the Ka'bah (Kaaba) and possibly kissing the sacred Black Stone (Al Hajar Al Aswad).  Upon arrival in Makkah the pilgrim, now known as a Hajji, perform a series of symbolic rituals dedicated to Ibrahaim (Abraham) and his wife Hajar (Hagar).  The acts also symbolize the solidarity of muslims worldwide.  Thousands fly in for the occasion and the total attendance goes into the millions.  Last year an estimated 2,521,000 people attended.  Well over 3,000,000 are expected this year, according to the Embassy of Saudi Arabia.  I picked up a 'pocket guide' to the Hajj rom the university this week.   It is filled with the rituals, sayings and prayers required for every stage of the pilgrimage.  Here is an extract:


Allaah is the Greatest.   Make seven sircuit's of Ka'bah (for the first three circuits - men only - swiftly walk around the Ka'bah; Then begin fourt circuit walking at normal pace completely around & finish until seventh circuit). During each circuit, whilst between ar-Rukn al-Yamaanee & al-Hajar al-Aswad recite: Our Lord! Give us in this world that which is good & in the Hereafter that which is good, and save us from the torment of the fire!' (sic)

I have discussed the rituals of the Hajj with my students and the sacrifice of animals along the way.  This came up in a lesson about volunteering.  Muslims are strongly aware of the virtues of volunteering.  They have a sense of duty to the poor and unfortunate.  Voluntary acts and deeds of sacrific are entwined in Islamic faith.  An example be the 'Zakat', or alms giving.  Much like a 'tithe', it is one of the Five Pillars of Islam.  It is the giving of a small percentage of one's possessions (surplus wealth etc) to charity, generally to the poor and needy.   It serves principally as the welfare contribution to poor and deprived Muslims, although others may have a rightful share.  It is the duty of any Isalmic community not just to collect zakat but to distribute it fairly as well.

Aside from the virtues associated with the Islamic faith, my students have also been discussing the virtues of premiership football (wherever you teach, kids will always talk Chelsea, Arsenal, Liverpool, Man U), downloading movies (remember, cinema is illegal in Saudi) and, surprisingly, the motives of the Trinity Killer (a character from the 4th season of American drama, Dexter).  The similarities between Chinese and Saudi teenagers is probably that is one replicated throughout the world.  Wherever there is a state or absolute monarchical clampdown on what you can and can't see, teenagers will bypass this by whatever means and download things one way or another.  You just can't censor individuals, whether they are in the fastest economic growing nation or one of the most conservative nations on the planet.   It's the 'being seen to' not the pure ethic of what is good or right that provides the motivation.  Discuss?

Half Way There Day

The second week here in Riyadh has been tougher. I succumbed to foot sores and leg pain after a lot of walking in uncomfortable new shoes and general useage.  As I write this it is exactly half way there. 2 Weeks down, 2 weeks to go.  Doesn't sound like much, but I am already looking forward to getting out of here.

It has been/will have been a good experience but I am glad I chose the one month option.  I look at ALL the other guys and don't feel envious at all.  Most are suffering from a lack of one thing or another.  The double shift finally got to me around Monday, where I hit a wall.. exhausted.  This is despite getting plenty of sleep at night.  OK, my daily routine involves waking with the morning call for prayer just after 5am... and getting up soon after.  I get a 6.20am taxi ride with Richard, the only other short-term Bell employee, although he has now finished his stint, leaving just me.  I teach from 8-11.40 with one 20 minute break, in which I have to find my teaching partner, swap registers and discuss topics.  Prayers are called around this time.  Lunch is hardly a time to relax as I prepare for the afternoon - beginning at 1pm and ending around 4.50pm, with another break for prayer half way through.   On Monday, timings get shifted by an hour, so we leave in the dark and find difficulty in getting a taxi - although having a guaranteed ride back and forth was part of my contract.  

The kids, at first polite, generous and interesting have already become restless, louder and more preoccupied with a Math(s) exam, which I had to help invigilate today (Thursday).  I have lost my cool on more than one occasion this week, with the constant barraking and appeals to (a) buy water and (b) go for a piss, during each lesson.  My Levels 3s are much better, however, than my Level 1s which confirms my feeling that I am not cut out for lower levels and would always chose a higher level given the option.  

A couple of bad days (Tuesday and Wednesday) were rounded off, last night, by a mysterious and scary 'taxi' ride from the gates of KSU into the heart of nowhere.  Four of us got into an unmarked truck, with an 'taxi' driver operating illegally, who badgered and encouraged us he knew the way to our hotel.  It wasn't long before a few alternative turns south and north made us collectively realise he was taken us miles out of our way.  We forced him to stop before he crashed the vehicle and walked off into the darkness, trying to orientate ourselves and find another cab.  He followed us repeatedly asking for money... we had paid 25 riyals as 'agreed' but he assumed this was 25 x 4 (of us) = 100.  Clearly crazy and a con artist, he tried to rope in other locals, including a random guy he claimed to be'police'.. then he tried to prevent the other taxi driver leaving, claiming we wouldn't pay him!  Anyway, the four of us, including an overweight American called Burt were a little shaken but mostly we had learned a lesson.  Which takes me back to issue of why there isn't a guaranteed taxi as promised.. not to mention the extra cost each day of getting our own.

As things stand, the university only has one more week of teaching - basically a revision week.  The students will **************************************************************************

*************************************************************************.  Which would explain the competitiveness and seriousness of how the students feel about exams and attendance... although I'm not sure I believe that fact.  Each of them want as much help as possible and are up in arms as soon as the believe that something is unfair.  A school system which creates an impression where full marks are normal carries on here and students cry foul if they are awarded anything less than maximum marks... believing it someone else's fault bar their own.  The programme************************* is************************************************************

.  I am, nonetheless, impressed, by the scale, organisation and materials of the programme.  It is authentic and has attracted a strong list of experienced teachers from around the world, many of whom speak Arabic, are muslim and/or have adopted the muslim way of life, including not drinking and wearing a thobe.  I also think it attracts 'odd-bods' who otherwise don't fit in with the people of their respective homelands. I am constantly impressed by the relative order going on and how strict enforcement of the rules takes place.  It is very noticeable just how much people 'obey'.  For my kids misbevahing, it is more letting off steam than anything else.

It remains to be seen what happens with my final week, but as each day ticks by I am assuming that I won't be doing much in my final week except waiting for my flight home.  It will be an opportunity to be a proper tourist and I may yet go the desert.  But I will definitely be in the home straight of a very short stay.  Last Friday, I ventured to the heart of the Pakistani/Indian community for an Afghan meal at the 'Khyber Pass', before trying to find 'chop-chop' square.  We did find the historic Muzmak Fortres. This is Riyadh's most signifcant monument, dating from way back (1865), and well-restored. According to Lonely Planet, "Masmak (sic) was the scene of the Ibn Saud's daring 1902 raid, during which a spear was hurled at the main entrance doors, with such force that the head is still lodged in the doorway."  After that, we (myself, Joe, James and Paul) wandered around the gold souk dira.. i've never been much into 'gold' and they were more interested in chunky bars than ornate bracelets.. I did, however, find one shop with a Bell logo (see below)... maybe they have branched out here. 

Anyway, with over 170 teachers on site now (my pigeon hole is no.171) I am the only one left on the short-term deal.  There were only ever 6 hired through Bell.  Most of the emails, material and workshops are irrelevant to me... they relate to the regular employees, the ones sticking around, and the timings of all training take place when I'm teaching.  I don't think I am even going to get an observation.  Something tells me that it will be easy street from here on in.  5 more days on site. The countdown has begun.  I just hope I get paid what I will eventually be owed, and that I can avoid getting in any more dangerously driven trucks.

TP