Monday, 23 November 2009
Hong Kong Visa Run
Ever since I arrived in Hong Kong on 2 September, I knew that I would be returning sooner or later to collect a working Z visa. Having agreed to work for Bell-Beijing, the timing of my appointment meant that I travelled on a 3 months visitor's visa. I have now upgraded this to a full working visa, which covers me for another 12 months, not that I will be staying here that long.
The company paid for the flight, but I am left to foot the hotel bill. Two nights at The Charterhouse, in Wan Chai, on Hong Kong Island. It was an opportunity to have a little break from the biting cold winds of Beijing, and to spend the HK dollars which had been burning a hole since I collected them along with my Chinese Renminbi back in August.
I had to take a taxi to Terminal 2, Beijing Airport, as it was early on Sunday morning. Despite the pricey fare I correctly guessed which terminal (of 3) I was leaving from, as my booking was solely in Chinese. The flight with 'Hong Kong Express', an airline I had never heard of before, was fine. I actually managed to sleep on a plane for once. I took another 'Airport Express' - the MTR from Lantau to HK Island. I am familiar with the line having used it a few times before. Taxi to the hotel, door to door. No problems. No fuss. A single room on the 19th floor. This was my 4th time to HK, including my brief flirtation back at the beginning of September.
This time, I met Ian Clark, a frequent HK visitor, albeit to visit his nephew, Alex, in Mong Kok. He is happy enough in Hong Kong, as happy as a grumpy person can be. He has his Octopus Card - the original and first contactless smart card system in the world. He moans about the price of things generally, but he gets massive discounts for being 'old' and 'grumpy'. He claims to be finishing off with the Youth Hostel in Wells very soon. He will then put his house back on the market in the new year, with a view to move to Fakenham later in the year. I persuaded him to visit Victoria Peak, which I had never previously got round to doing. So, I managed to tick off something on my to-do list. We naturally took the Peak Tram. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peak_Tram.
We avoided paying extra for the Sky Terrace, as we had excellent views anyway on a sunny day. I found Ian a willing if unqualified camera operator, the latest in a long line of camera assistants. I was a tourist and I didn't care if I looked like one. It was Sunday, so the streets of the Island from Central to Old Causeway were packed with the familiar sight of Filipino, Malay and Sri Lanka 'amahs' domestic workers, sitting in every available concrete corner. Saturday and Sunday are typically their days off.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amah_(occupation)
With no BBC on the hotel TV, just FOX and strangely, Arirang (the English language Korean station), I ventured back out into the Wan Chai area on Sunday evening, looking for entertainment. I had to concentrate and not get led astray, as I needed to be up early for my appointment with the Visa Consular Department. I took in a few beers along Lockhart Road, whilst wondering what lay behind the doors of places such as 'New Makati', 'Club King' and 'San Fransisco'. Actually, the window dressing gave it away. Needless to say, not all Filipino or Thai girls are 9-5 'amahs'. I settled for a reasonably early night, having watched England beat South Africa handsomely in the 2nd one-day international in Centurion. The next day I caught Premiership highlights of Tottenham's 9-1 demolition of Wigan at the Old China Hand, a quintessential 'British' pub. I was not bothered about seeking out dim-sum on this occasion, although I did have some Cantonese Noodles on Sunday evening.
After taking breakfast at the Chaterhouse, I quickly made my way down to the Visa Consular Department, where a bustling queue was already established. Mondays are the busiest day, apparently. But the queue was ordered, organised and we were all quickly seen to one-by-one. I was in and out of the building in less than 30 minutes and my Z-Visa application was completed before 10am. Everything I had read said that the 'rush' processed visa would take 24 hours. The sign inside, which said that it now takes '2 working days' concerned me. However, it simply meant that a 10am application on one morning would be processed by the same time, next day!
With time to kill, I took the nearby Wan Chai Star Ferry over to Tsim Sha Tsui, on the other side of Victoria Harbour. A couple of photos later I was back on a ferry over to Central for a little wander around. I took the cheap, old-fashioned tram and mostly avoided the subway, as I did a bit more sightseeing than i have done previously here. My best decision today, however, was to have an afternoon Thai Massage. I believe I could get quite addicted to them. 45 minutes of pressing and stretching in a dark room with a girl I didn't set eyes upon until I paid my 88 HK dollars, just before leaving. It chilled me out well and good, and I was a little bit soporific after that.
I spent most of the evening reading stuff and people-watching at a few different bars along the notorious Lockhart Road. I then had a little dance in a nearby club, knowing I didn't have to be up at the crack of dawn. My immediate boss at Bell lived in Hong Kong for almost two years and stayed in this part of Wan Chai. She remembers negotiating stairwells and sidewalks full of immigrant 'night workers', here for a quick 'dollar' at overpriced bars. Despite being a stone's throw from the visa office, or maybe because of it, this is/was one of the more seedy areas of town. I had another surprisingly early night, knowing my original mission was still not complete.
On Tuesday morning, I collected my Z visa, for 700 HK Dollars. I had opted to pay for the multiple entry visa just in case I needed to leave China inbetween now and the end of June, although the chances are slim. I know that I had 3 weeks holiday due, but I am already planning for 2 of those to be taken at the end so that I can leave in June, rather than July. It was confirmed today (Wed) that I can claim back the cost of both hotel and visa. Meanwhile, I flexed my other visa and bought a few items of clothing which I have been putting off doing for a while. I may have purchased a couple of uneccessary items, but I felt temporarily weakened surrounded by consumerism. However, roll on the beginning of next month when i will hopefully be able to settle my outstanding debts.
I boarded the plane back to Beijing, and was reminded about the importance of health declaration forms and declaring my new residency. I am unsure if my landlady has a problem with this, but I told her this evening (Wed) and I think she wants to visit the police herself. Maybe she has her own 'spin' on how and why i am living at 1603.
TP
Sunday, 15 November 2009
An Injection of Positive Thinking
The view from 1603, G Block. Most of the buildings in the foreground belong to CAFA.
It's not so easy to write when your head is foggy. Fortunately the sunshine outside the window is helping me to think clearly. Strange how the weather affects our mood but we all know that it does. It is still cold. There was another burst of snowfall over Beijing on Tuesday, and this time it has hung around. You know how in England, when it snows, we are always taken by surprise... traffic halts and tailbacks develop. Breakdown services are obviously called into overtime, but how many individuals do you see physically shifting snow from one place to another? Well here the snow seemed to create a day's work for thousands of shovel-wealding volunteers. Those who duties are not specific seem to get roped into the general demand for the transportation of fresh white stuff to less inconvenient areas. It snowed again on Thursday but it was wetter and didn't really settle, but we have all had a slushy kind of week. The downside to this for me is not that it is cold outside and I have to wrap up warm. That's easily managed. But I do have to suffer from intolerable hot fans and air conditioning. People all seem to feel the cold before me and always overcompensate by turning up the artificial heating. My throat is the first part of my body to complain.. and I have been going round the campus in just a T-shirt (short bursts only!) just to make a point. The university are offering us free jabs of H1N1 vaccine.. but I am reluctant to take it. I am sure it is perfectly safe but it undoubtedly will make whoever takes it feel groggy for a couple of days and I don't want that. And, I know where I can consume kimchi easily... which is my prefered immune system upgrade.
The situation at work becomes clearer in one aspect... we know what we are dealing with. My line manager (Director Of Studies) has decided to quit, however, which leaves a potential problem. She leaves next month and has already interviewed one candidate. I am not technically qualified to take over and I wouldn't want to, because I have other commitments on my time. But I may have to undertake a caretaker role. Positive thinking continues to be required.. up til now I have been absolutely fine, resolute, unshakable even. But a change like this can unsettle me. I feel really sorry for her, because she has been beaten down by the circumstances in which the whole course was set up.... it's exhausted her and she needs to return home to Australia for this and other more personal reasons. This leaves the other staff wondering what the future will hold, but I think we can do it, and I know that I will 'step-up' to the challenge of assisting the Chinese teachers to do their jobs. No.. I'm NOT taking over, not this time... because I know my limits and I don't fancy banging my head against the proverbial brick wall.
I am a bit concerned that I haven't told the local police that I have moved into 1603. My woman says 'no problem' but I am not sure she knows what my concern is. The Chinese like to fine foreigners large sums if they don't obey rules and I kind of know I am breaking one... but maybe I will wait until after next weekend. I fly to Hong Kong to get my Visa upgraded... and not before time. I have been told about a bit of proofreading work going at a translation company based in Leeds, but with an office here in Beijing... but I wouldn't be able to do that until I am 'all clear'. I will be away for 3 days inclusive (Sun - Tue). This possibility of work comes through my Saturday friend who I meet at the Bookworm for language exchange.. i help her with IELTS exam practice and she tries to teach me the chinese word for 'left' and 'right'. I am a very slower language learner. Great teacher, but poor student!
So, I must continue to think positively... it has done me very well up til now. I will continue to take the medication knowing that, whether it is responsible or not, I am remaining fairly calm. It might be 2 weeks before my next blog, by which time I will be legal and also have something more to talk about.
Go back to the top and click on the heading 'An Injection of Positive Thinking' to see a short clip of the view from 1603.
Bye for now.
Phil.
Sunday, 8 November 2009
November Drain
This time last year I was severely struggling to hold on to sanity. I had 'lost it', broken down with mental pressures which gained the better of me. I was drug-free and without a sympathic friend within practicable distance. I had fallen into a rut with my unattentive students and a social trap of partying at weekends, like I was just out of university. The subsequent melt-down of anxiety attacks and depression caused me to cut short my second stint in South Korea and I returned home, less wealthy and with all of my tail between all of my legs.
What a difference a year makes... actually it takes less time than that. But I certainly had winter blues back in the UK. Not until I undertook and completed my CELTA course back in Feb/March did things begin to get better. After a brief misguided assumption that I would return to Korea and a similar brief flirtation of the idea of teaching somewhere in Europe (e.g. Spain) I made inroads into the possibility of teaching in China. Obviously, getting a Chinese girlfriend help to point my GPS in the right direction... and she has handsomely repaid my 'investment' in her by brokering a deal whereby I live with her auntie and 9 year old son. The coincidence and practicality of where I suddenly find myself goes to show that every Beijing pollution-generated cloud has a silver lining. I now take the 9 year old to school each morning. I teach him English five evenings a week (or whenever possible). I have my dinner cooked for me and, furthermore, I get to live in a comfortable apartment, within walking distance of my workplace, rent-free. I have tried to contribute to the running costs but my co-habitant is having none of it... it is enough that I am teaching her son and don't cause her any trouble. I think if I threw a party and invited hoardes of clubbers back from Vix and Mix that might change the atmosphere... but that is about as likely as CCTV suddenly attacking the government.
I don't really want to be thrust into a position where my responsibilities suddenly increase for no extra salary. I would do it if I could. But I am committed to teaching both there and and at home. I would say, however, that I had this dream once, it was about a year ago. I was thrust into a position where I was trying to hold down 3 or 4 different jobs... the lack of quality control did for me and I fell between them all. I have been promised that my contract will be honoured... but I don't want it all to suddenly go pear-shaped at work. It is currently banana-shaped... with skins being placed routinely under our feet to try to slip us up!
The next week could prove to be a make or break one. I will write again, hopefully, next Sunday. In the meantime I sign off with a poem, in the style of Dr.Suess (which I have been reading and watching with my 9 year old):
What are they doing?
To us here at Bell.
They are making it hard,
They are making it hell.
Yes, making it hell.
We want to be friends
and good workers, too
but they're plotting against us
and that just won't do
no, that just won't do!
They gave us a contract
which hasn't been paid
And that contract is silly
and smells, I'm afraid.
They put us in place with
good wishes of luck
but that luck is transparent
coz they don't give a ****
They gave us some students
with poor English scores
and because we can't teach them
they show us the door
They beat us and break us
with big wooden sticks
and they think we can sort it
with a simple, quick fix
Oh, so what do we do?
now then, what do we do?
They have left us all beaten, all
black and all blue.
I've got to step up
AND still teach FuFu.
So how do I cope with
Wednesday, 4 November 2009
Winter Arrives
Well, winter arrives as predicated accurately in my previous blog. It WAS the last good week of weather, with the temperature dropping on Saturday before induced snow fell on Sunday. The 'powers that be' ordered some more of that silver iodide to be seeded into the sky, causing Beijing's earliest snowfall in a decade. I believe that news of planned seeding is spread by word of mouth, or by guesswork. Either way, it took a lot of Beijingers by surprise. I still dream of Organon.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/8337337.stm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRHA9W-zExQ
http://picasaweb.google.com/Garry.Roffe/SnowMadeInChina#
I had a great week with Garry being here. He stayed at 701 and moved out, as planned, following the snowfall on Sunday. We visited 798 Art District before he left, although wet shoes put a huge dampener on enjoying any art. The BBC liked my short film of the snowfall and wanted to use it, but then didn't, leaving (BBC Correspondent) Quentin Sommerville's piece up instead on the website. Garry's contract finishes in January 2010, but he is pretty certain to remain in Pusan for another 12 months and probably with the same firm. Any half-hearted idea of moving to Beijing was always unlikely and kicked into touch completely by the plummeting temperatures. Pusan was experiencing temperatures that were 18 degrees warmer. No brainer! On Friday, we ventured to the Bookworm for a fancy dress 1793 themed murder mystery. The concubine on the left was killed. The maid on the right did it!

So my 'big' into 1603, a move from one tower block (E) to an adjacent (both are connected to F) block (G), went off smoothly. I am now fully resident with Xiaodan's auntie, her cousin, Ting Ting and nephew, Fu Fu. I have agreed to taking Fu to school each weekday morning, as it is in my direction, and i don't have to go out of my way. We often meet Le Le (which Fu translates as 'happy happy') on the way to school. Honestly, it's starting to sound a bit like the Teletubbies round here: Ting-ky Winky, Dipsy (that's me), Le Le, Fu! I'm already very settled and it is such a relief to know that I won't be on my own this winter, with cooked food, my own hot shower and spacious desk space. My job, which I have already chosen to accept, is to teach Fu for at least 1 hour x 5 nights per week. This week I made the breakthrough discovery that he can't consistently pronounced the 'n' sound, opting to say 'l' instead. I've come across the 'l' and 'r' confusion, but this appears unique having done some internet research.. Therefore, the simple word 'no' is pronounced as 'lo', although bizarrely he can correctly pronounce 'November'!
The view from 1603 clearly defines CAFA's boundaries. I am in no mood to discuss the in-depths problems that are going on at that place, between us and them... but it is tense to say the least. However, I am perfectly fine and riding the crest of the argumentative wave, paragliding at least two air currents above it all. We have a new Australian teacher who has taken over one of the classes, leaving my line manager to control things and get things organised... which they haven't been up til now. We are going to prove quite a few people wrong and deal with the patronising attitude of some, who mistakenly believe that we don't understand the Chinese attitude toward education and the best method of teaching!
Can't be bothered to upload any more photos.
Anyway, gotta go... King Fu panders after me...
TPxx
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/8337337.stm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRHA9W-zExQ
http://picasaweb.google.com/Garry.Roffe/SnowMadeInChina#
I had a great week with Garry being here. He stayed at 701 and moved out, as planned, following the snowfall on Sunday. We visited 798 Art District before he left, although wet shoes put a huge dampener on enjoying any art. The BBC liked my short film of the snowfall and wanted to use it, but then didn't, leaving (BBC Correspondent) Quentin Sommerville's piece up instead on the website. Garry's contract finishes in January 2010, but he is pretty certain to remain in Pusan for another 12 months and probably with the same firm. Any half-hearted idea of moving to Beijing was always unlikely and kicked into touch completely by the plummeting temperatures. Pusan was experiencing temperatures that were 18 degrees warmer. No brainer! On Friday, we ventured to the Bookworm for a fancy dress 1793 themed murder mystery. The concubine on the left was killed. The maid on the right did it!
So my 'big' into 1603, a move from one tower block (E) to an adjacent (both are connected to F) block (G), went off smoothly. I am now fully resident with Xiaodan's auntie, her cousin, Ting Ting and nephew, Fu Fu. I have agreed to taking Fu to school each weekday morning, as it is in my direction, and i don't have to go out of my way. We often meet Le Le (which Fu translates as 'happy happy') on the way to school. Honestly, it's starting to sound a bit like the Teletubbies round here: Ting-ky Winky, Dipsy (that's me), Le Le, Fu! I'm already very settled and it is such a relief to know that I won't be on my own this winter, with cooked food, my own hot shower and spacious desk space. My job, which I have already chosen to accept, is to teach Fu for at least 1 hour x 5 nights per week. This week I made the breakthrough discovery that he can't consistently pronounced the 'n' sound, opting to say 'l' instead. I've come across the 'l' and 'r' confusion, but this appears unique having done some internet research.. Therefore, the simple word 'no' is pronounced as 'lo', although bizarrely he can correctly pronounce 'November'!
The view from 1603 clearly defines CAFA's boundaries. I am in no mood to discuss the in-depths problems that are going on at that place, between us and them... but it is tense to say the least. However, I am perfectly fine and riding the crest of the argumentative wave, paragliding at least two air currents above it all. We have a new Australian teacher who has taken over one of the classes, leaving my line manager to control things and get things organised... which they haven't been up til now. We are going to prove quite a few people wrong and deal with the patronising attitude of some, who mistakenly believe that we don't understand the Chinese attitude toward education and the best method of teaching!
Can't be bothered to upload any more photos.
Anyway, gotta go... King Fu panders after me...
TPxx
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