Lisa is a fantastic person: stimulating, honest, opinionated, interesting, challenging, loving, inspiring. This particular adventure was not just a holiday, a vacation, but an opportunity to be together, to get to know each other and to see if we had a future together. Ultimately, the adventure appeared to have come to an abrupt end on Saturday 27 February, but this second part of my blog about the Philippines contains much to remember and to be happy about.
On Wed 17 February, we left Boracay behind us, getting a little lost on the way to the Motortrike that would take us to the departure bay. We said our goodbyes to Vaughan and wished him well in his flourishing Blue Mango business, a delightful place, which will always have great memories for me. We took our time, eventually boarding the pumpboat bangka back to Caticlan. Another beautifully, clear day brought many more photo opportunities at the pier. However, Lisa sustained a hand injury, a nasty burn on her left hand as she lost her balance on the bangska and grabbed a hot metal pole. At first, she was simply inconvenienced and sought some ice on our arrival at Caticlan port. She seemed hurt, but not seriously. We both knew she would get a blister and it was unfortunate, but not life threatening.
I filmed some pensioners entertaining the empty waiting hall, and we booked our Seair shuttle back to the airport for our ongoing flight to Cebu. The flight was roughly one hour, during which Lisa became more uncomfortable. Upon landing she requested treatment. Searing pain had developed and she was not happy. I immediately agreed to take her to a hospital, bypassing the expensive white cabs and opting for a metered yellow cab into the city and the Chinese sounding Chung Hua Hosptial. Whilst there we received immediate ER treatment, although once seated it was ages before the doctor came round to addressing the wound. Meanwhile, serious road accident victims came and went, covered with blood and head injuries. The staff prioritised the serious casualties, leaving a frustrated Lisa wondering when she was going to be attended to. Eventually the doctor treated her by cutting away the blister, and applying cream and guaze. He also gave her two tetanus jabs - she had never had these before - and wrote a prescription for pills. It was a very expensive trip - costing over 6000 pesos - and I did my very best to be patient and to look after the patient. I was quick to obtain cheap but genuine medicine from a local pharmacy and promptly settled the bill. My occasional joke did not go down well and Lisa's mood was not good at all. She was grateful at first, but seemingly ungrateful later when I appeared flustered by the busy, dirty streets of Cebu. I helped her find another pharmacy but we fell out yet again looking for a place to sit down and take stock of the situation. I made some mistakes in the heat and said some bad things, mostly because she made me feel inadequate. Deep down, however, she was grateful, but just couldn't express it easily. I accused her of some things which I regretted and was sorry for later, while we tried to check on our ongoing flight to Palawan and to find a room for the night, eventually picking out the odd TEO FEL guesthouse. The atmosphere could have been cut with a knife that evening. I had been on edge walking around a city where signs openly stated 'beware of pickpockets'. Her suffering was only partly eased by the amount of caring I showed. We argued later and agreed to separate the next day. I would go to Palawan and she would go to Bohol. We would cancel the prebooked Superferry ticket as neither of us wanted a 20 hour journey back to Manila. But we would do our own thing, incapable of getting on with each other. Later we realised that we had taken no photos at all of Cebu, bar the one below. But it had been necessary to take the detour and react to an injury which worried Lisa and made for an unhappy middle day of the trip.
Thankfully we talked about our fall-out during the night and woke up to a new, similar destination. After cancelling the SuperFerry ticket at the port, we rushed to the airport to take a Cebu Pacific flight to Puerto Princesa, Palawan, the eastern most island of the Philippines. The cabin crew entertained us by dancing to Lady Gaga on the flight over. Shame I couldn't film it as the usual rules applied to cameras and take off! But it was a welcome distraction which brought a smile.
The rescheduled destination would prove to be a saving grace. Rather than island hopping and trying to make ferry times, we took a flight to the main city on the island, and a welcome break from Cebu it was, too. Peace and calm lay ahead, as did a road from the airport which was littered with eager motortrike drivers, all befuddled that Lisa and I wanted to walk with all of our bags in the midday sun. Immediately more beautiful and tranquil, Puerto was just a stopping point onto greater tranquility. But we had some interesting conversations and our first Dormitory experience at the very backpackerish, Banwa Pension House. A walk around the town taking photos revealed the prominent number of Catholic churches and the juxtaposition of good and evil.
We met a number of interesting characters at the Banwa, 18 Feb. Lisa immediately perked up with the company and it was difficult not to get a little jealous. There were some serious backpackers here and some people who had managed to wangle a cushy website design job which didn't require them to wear a tie or go into the office. There were also some young, naive travellers, who clearly had little pressure in life and liked to remember everywhere they had been with a new bracelet. We met a taxi driver from Wigan who was full of himself, but not to Lisa's liking, thankfully. The idea of constant travel was alluring yet somehow ridiculous. How does a Chinese person of a certain age just give up work and only travel? It remained a vacation for me, not a lifestyle.
An early rise from Banwa, 19 Feb. A road trip to El Nido. We had sought much advice about to get from the centre port of Puerto up to the idyllic attractions of the north-west coast of Palawan. In the end, we decided (or rather I decided) to take a van, along with 5 others (a local teacher, 2 swedes and a French couple), for a 6 hour trip along the coast and through some uneven terrain. It wasn't a bad journey, but Lisa fell sick. She was helped by a sickness tablet, kindly donated by one of the Swedes, but it was a difficult, unpleasant trip for her. My stomach held up and I was stronger than ever, but I had to comfort my companion for most of the journey. I bought a tacky bracelet halfway up at Roxas but the break was more of a chance to breathe fresh air and get water. We broke down 25 kilometres from our destination - apparently it happens on every trip - and a tyre was replaced. In the end, the sights on arriving at El Nido outweighed the difficulty of the journey.
It was a blessing in disguise for around 10 guesthouses to turn us away in El Nido town itself. Fully-booked all the way. Or available, but grim. Lisa had persuaded me not to book in advance, and laughed at my reliance on the Lonely Planet. So, we went around looking for a place to stay. In the end, we found a perfect place at reasonable cost. The Island Front Cottages were situated just along the main road at Corong Corong and were quieter and even better situated than those in El Nido. The view of the Bacuit Archipelago was unbeatable and, again, we were right on the beach. A lovely, rainbow decorated room, complete with visiting cats and dogs, plus friendly but laid-back service completed the perfectness. We settled in for the best 3 days and nights of the whole holiday. The only minor panic was when I got stung by a jellyfish and bashed my foot on a rock trying to run back to the beach. I immediately came up in a rash, but some vinegar neutralized the sting.
The highlight was probably taking a boat out around the lagoons, 20 Feb. We roughly set off in the direction of the islands you can see above, in particular, Miniloc. We both took a dip in the small lagoon, all tranquility and echoes. Then I swam with the fishes in the big lagoon, in amongst the coral reefs, starfish and occasional jellyfish. Our guide, Ryan, led the way, and our boat was first to each destination on the tour, with others following in hot pursuit.
In between the drama of locating the lost camera, Lisa had to decide on a return date from Manila. I managed to book a Wednesday flight, having secured a few more days off work. She could only get the same flight subject to a hefty fee. She eventually settled for Thursday, and no extra fee, having made one of the few decisions by herself of the whole holiday.
The following day was less eventful and less stressful. A walk along the beach to a beautiful resort called Las Cabanas. It was so quiet I found that I could run naked into the sea with no onlookers. However, there was one young Filipino guy lurking behind the bushes, who took a fancy to me. Cue lots of hysterical jokes in my direction. It didn't stop us returning later, at Lisa's request, to watch the sunset. A simple, but gorgeous lunch, and the best Mango Juice of the trip (and we had a lot of Mango juice). We visited El Nido and had a look around. Lisa took more photos, I checked flight information. We walked some more and took a lot of pics. We wandered along the main road and ignored motor trike offers. We spent an hour watching the sun go down. Idyllic. Then Lisa worked her magic on a free workers lorry ride back to Corong Corong. We bought Ryan and his wife Karen a meal in the evening as a way of saying thanks for the help finding the camera.
We needed to stop in Coron Town for one night, opposite the imposing sight of Coron Island. The reason is that we couldn't get a flight from El Nido airport, and the best way to get back to Manila for the return flights home was to fly from Busuanga aiport on Tuesday morning. By now, I was thinking that I had a sufficient break. I was getting better at turning down rooms flatly and knowing the kind of thing Lisa wanted. Our fourth choice was up the main road away from the port, but again we chose well - Kokosnuss had a garden and a little cottage as well as decent service. It was also convenient for catching the airport shuttle the next day. We ate at Seadive, although Lisa hadn't quite recovered from the boat trip. I had lobster. She took more photos, including the one below.
On Tues 23 Feb we took a shuttle to the low-key and ill-serviced Busuanga airport and flew back to Manila. This time, no taxi was going to get the better of us. However, I made another error of judgement and got us lost in Makati when really we should have gone straight to Malate and checked out Friendlys Guesthouse again. Lisa snubbed my first choice of pension house and cried out for travellers to talk to. Friendly's it was, and this time we slept in a 12 person dorm. A little bit of distance had crept back into our relationship and we had yet another fall-out during the flight and whilst looking for a place to stay. It seemed almost inevitable... I am given total responsibility to make decisions and then we they are wrong, others get frustrated with me. For the first time ever, Starbucks saved my life. Air conditioning and a decent chance to talk to each other.. it cleared the air again paving way for the evening, which was spent trying to find some Manila 'action'. I was given permission to check out a night spot and we were both curious as to what Manila had to offer. We had a bit of wild goose chase before a knowledgeable taxi driver took us to a nude review. 'Boring' and 'Overpriced' was my good ladies' personal review. At least she complained and got us a decent discount. And I couldn't stop laughing when she was chatting to the taxi driver about what Manila had to offer and how I was desperate to see naked women !! (Note: I wasn't THAT desperate!)
And with that, I said goodbye to Manila and to Lisa. I had to leave her there the next morning. Her flight was more than 24 hours away and she looked forlorn and unable to decide what to do. I gave her the idea of going up a volcano, which eventually she did, after making friends with an American guy called Mark.
I returned to Beijing, via Hong Kong, in seemingly no time at all. Beijing was just as I had left it - grey, cloudy, cold. The snow had temporarily gone (but it came back on Sunday night) and the skies had been constantly bombarded with 2 weeks of fireworks. I had missed the major Chinese celebration of the whole year, but I was getting the tail end of the tiger.
What was supposed to be a welcome reunion with Lisa on Saturday turned into an angry exchange. I won't detail what happened, but a simple 2 word text from me to her on her arrival back in Beijing incensed her greatly. It lit the touchpaper. And despite sharing all the photos from the holiday and have a laugh at one or two, the atmosphere was as edgy as that night in Cebu or (insert one of numerous examples of fall-outs during the trip). I stormed off not once but twice. Later I stated that I didn't think we could have a relationship, due to too many constant misunderstandings. So we effectively broke up. She then said she loved me. Christine did exactly the same thing during a phone call, following an argument, just after we had been on holiday in Menorca, after knowing each other for 3 weeks. We ended up living together for 2 years.
TP
Further photos can be found on flickr: Click Here.
2 videos from the trip can now be found on
YouTube: (El Nido Yellow) Click Here.
(Lost In The Philippines) and Here.