Andalucia

Sometimes a blog gets written and nobody ever reads it.  That may be the case with this one.  So why bother? Because it acts as a reflexive tool for the writer, much as keeping a journal of thoughts or things accomplished.   I may not be teaching this week or continuing my TEFL travels.. but I am travelling and maybe I will decide to live in the area I have been visiting for the past week.

I have been visiting Andalucia this past week. I flew into Malaga, then took a train to Cordoba followed by a bus to Granada. I don´t speak Spanish, although maybe I will learn one day.  So my ability to communicate effectively is restricted.  I came to Cordoba, via the southern beach resort of Malaga, to see Rene, a friend from the summer school programme at the Leys this year.  I had ´earned´ a holiday after Saudi Arabia - although more financially than vocationally.

It was a little odd flying into the UK for just over 24 hours.   It was the first time ever to pop back for a day to see the family and fly off again.  The oddness was bearable as I wasn´t going for long.  As well as being a bonus short break, it has also been a chance to do a reconnaissance mission.  The possibility of one day teaching in Spain is high.  I would suggest it is more likely than not.  Life happens, of course, but I think I am able to make my own destiny now.  This is unlike the young Andalucian boy, Santiago, in the novel ´The Alchemist´ by Paulo Coelho.  His ´destiny´ was mapped out for him.  Although I am not open to things being pre-ordained, I am open to the idea of ´fate´. 

I came away from the middle east thinking i could work there again.  I will go away from Andalucia believing that I will work here.  If I want to do it, it will happen.  To quote the Paulo´s old King, "When you want something, all the universe conspires in helping you to achieve it."


I took an AVANT train to Cordoba and spent an evening with Rene and some of his colleagues from International House (Academia Britanica).  There was a leaving gathering for one teacher.  During our simple meal, accompanied by Rioja, Barcelona beat Almeria 8-0 in La Liga BBVA.   I was sociable and had lots to talk about, especially with my recent adventure in Riyadh.   Everyone seemed interested in the salary, anyway.  They seemed less keen to adopt to the rules of a strict Muslim country.   Naturally, I had a few drinks, but was effectively ´killed off´ by an Alhambra Especial beer in SOUL, Calle de Alfonso XIII.  Despite enjoying the music and realising it was a popular place, I couldn´t cope with not being able to talk above the noise.  I eventually stormed off.

On Sunday, I got Rene´s guided tour of Cordoba.  The capital of Al-Andalus (the old Islamic centre), Cordoba contains at its heart a labyrinth of narrow streets which culminate in the Cathedral which used to be a mosque.  The Mezquita is fascinating, primarily for containing such ornate designs and a diverse sense of history in one large space.  So an elongated Muslim prayer space which recalls oasis palm groves, has a grand 16th century Catholic cathedral plonked right in the middle.  Outside the Orange Tree Gardens are overlooked by a Catholic tower, which was built over a minaret of Abdar-ar-Rahman III.  It is certainly impressive but I don't feel remotely spiritual, especially when there is a juxtoposition of different faiths in one building, such as this.

On Tuesday, I took a bus from Cordoba to Granada.  I think it's a prettier place, overlooked by the Sierra Nevada mountains and the mystical Alhambra.  Islamic Spain is truly represented here, not just in the Alhambra but in the Albayzin quarter of the city.  It's usually a hotbed centre for flemenco, but I was travelling a little out of season.  I stayed in La Juderia, in the old Jewish part of town, within 5 minutes walk from the Alhambra gardens.  Quaint, quiet and accommodating.  It was explained to me by the French born proprietor, Beatrice, that it was a quiet time of year.  It was late November and wet.  I could see how her little guesthouse would be crammed with visitors non-stop during the summer months.

I orientated myself pretty quickly, and took advantage of the number 3 and 33 buses which ran from the estacion de autobuses to the centro (city centre).  On the way I noticed a Pink Floyd pub, and I visited the place on both evenings I was there.

The highlight of the whole holiday was undoubtedly visiting the Alhambra.  Despite being a wet, overcast day, a steady stream of visitors had made the 'pilgrimage' up to the 'red castle'.  I picked up one of the 2000 tickets which are sold on the day (a further 4000 as sold in advance) and took the full, headset-based 'guided tour'.  I weaved my way, tourist-like, through Palacios Nazaries, then El Partal, then the towers of Alcazaba, before roaming through the water-based serenity of Generalife.   The Palacio de los Leones, where water is channelled through the mouths of 12 lions, was under refurbishment and the lions themselves were inside an exhibition hall.  Photos were generally allowed to be taken, but not here for some unknown reason. Additionally, I couldn't understand why I had to wear my backpack in front me on certain occasions.  Still, a fascinating place with exhilirating views at every turn.  Islamic architecture, symmetry and ornate designs, amazing backdrop.  A bell rung by hopeful lovers. A palace which survived the Napoleonic wars. A remnant. An empty residence, filled with visitors.

 I came away from Granada on Thursday thinking that I could live and work there.  I realise that in the summer it could be incredibly busy with visitors.  But it would be a good place to teach and to study Spanish.  I didn't actively seek out language schools, but would look into later. Not yet, but at some point in the future.  Probably preferable than teaching in Galicia or the north of the country.

I finished my short trip in Malaga, having caught the bus from Granada.  Malaga was quite vibrant and a little warmer than the previous two places.  Again, very much out of season.  Mostly locals, as far as I could tell.  I dipped out on the Pablo Picasso museum because I had a headache when I arrived.  I managed to take in some of the atmosphere but felt a little lonely wandering around and tucking into a basic Paella

Generally, I found 'smoking' - the 4th food group in southern Spain - to be evident everywhere. As is joints of jamon (ham).   After a month in a country where eating pig is illegal, there was an abundance of pig on show.. including as part of free tapas served at nearly every bar.  Begging and street theatre was also more commonplace than I would have imagined.  

I stayed at the Alameda Hotel, an odd little place on the 8th floor of a building, and probably paid over the odds.  However, I just need somewhere to crash ahead of flying back to the UK on Friday.  I left my passport and i-Pod in the hotel room, but realised before boarding the train to the airport.  Not for the first time had I left, or nearly left something behind.  Absent mindedness does creep in when I travel.

I was pleased to be going home for December.  Another month away from 'work'.  Next stop: Bowles Activity Centre, Kent, in January.